Lord For Immortality - Mrithyunjaya Temple At Thirukkadaiyur

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Mrithyunjaya/AmrithaGhateshwara/Abiraami Temple, Thirukkadaiyur

We had been to this temple thrice...for our relative's and friends' 60th birthday celebrations! We had been there a couple of days back and thought will write about it today.

This temple is particularly associated with Shiva saving his young devotee, Markendeya from death, and the tale of a saint, Abhiraami Battar, a devotee of the presiding goddess, Abhiraami.

This is a more than a thousand years old Shiva temple situated at 300 Km. from Chennai near Kaaraikkaal (off Pondicherry/Puduchery)). The main deities are Amrithaghateshwarar (Amritha Ghata Eashwara) Thirukkadaiyur derives its name from the pot, called Ghatam in Tamil. Vishnu, Indra and the other Devas needed a clean place to consume the ambrosia (Amritha) that had been churned out during the  Samudra manthan and, therefore, brought the ambrosia pot here...Wiki says), Kaala Samhaara Murthi (Markandeya, who is blessed to be ever 16 years old, worshipping this (Shiva linga) deity) and Abhiraami Ambaal, Eashwara's wife (This deity was worshipped by Abirami Battar,  a staunch devotee of Abhiraami and wrote Abhiraami Andhaadhi 100 verses in Tamil, praising her). You can hear it here.

I think Markandeya story has to be told here! Wiki is helping!

Shiva saving Markandeya from Yama (Courtesy: By Raja Ravi Varma)

Long ago, near the temple of Tirukkadaiyur, there lived a sage named Mrikandu and his wife Marudmati. They were both devotees of Lord Shiva and worshiped him day and night for many years, asking to be graced with a child. After many years of penance, Shiva appeared to Mrikandu and Marudmati. He told them that he heard their prayers and would give them a choice: they could either have a gifted son who would live to be only sixteen, or a son of low intelligence who would live a long life. Mrikandu and Marudmati chose the former, and were blessed with Markandeya, an exemplary son, destined to die at the age of sixteen.

As Markandeya grew, so did his devotion to Lord Shiva. As advised by his father, Markandeya worshipped the Shiva Lingam at Tirukkadaiyur, even bringing water from the Ganges to the temple via an underground passage. On the day he was destined to die, Yama, the deity of death, appeared with his noose to tie around the soul of Markandeya and take away his life.  Markandeya sought refuge in the Lord and embraced the Siva Lingam. Lord Shiva appeared and warned Yama not to touch Markandeya, as he was under his protection. Yama refused to listen and threw the noose anyway, binding Markandeya and the Lingam together. Angered by Yama's extraordinary arrogance, Lord Shiva kicked him and held him under his foot, making Yama inactive. Markandeya was blessed by Lord Shiva to remain sixteen years old eternally. It is for this reason that Lord Shiva is also called "Kala-samhara" (Sanskrit: "Destroyer of Time") at this temple.

Meanwhile, with Yama being rendered inactive, there were no deaths on earth, but people were still being born. Burdened by the weight of so many people and unable to sustain their hunger, the earth-goddess, Bhumi Devi, appealed to Lord Shiva for help. Lord Shiva, feeling compassionate for the earth-goddess, released Yama, allowing death to occur again. However, in order to remind Yama never to try to kill someone while they are worshipping Shiva again, the icon of Lord Shiva in this temple depicts the Lord with his forefinger raised in warning.

Since it is believed that Lord Siva subdued Yama in Thirukkadaiyur, the Lord is called Mrityunjaya (Sanskrit: "Conqueror of Death".

It is a Hindu tradition to visit this temple when the man of the family (don't know if women are given importance to do the pooja for them!) turns 60, 70, 75, 80 and hundred years old to live longer with good health.  Homams are conducted in this temple in their name and they are called:

Shashtiabhdha purthi (60)
Bheemaratha Shaanthi (70)
Vijayaratha Shanthi (75)
Shathaabhishekam (80)

For hundred years, they do 'kanakaabhishekam', I don't know if they are doing it here.

These homams are conducted 365 days a year.  Nearly 30 to 35 Homas can be conducted at a time, around the main garbhagriha of Shiva and around Abhiraami garbhagriha also, it seems.  They do Gaja pooja (A young elephant is there...pooja for that), Go pooja (cow & calf pooja), Ganapathi homa, Navagraha homa, Mrithyunjaya homa, Dhanvantri homa etc. for the package.  During 60th and 80th, the man ties the mangalsutra around his wife's neck.  It is done nearly like a wedding! One more interesting thing...a priest tells us the story about why this pooja has to be done and Markandeya's story too! He was good this time!

The homams are conducted according to the cost, from Rs. 35,000 to 50,000.  Any Hindu can come here and get it done.  They can bring their relatives also.  They help in recommending restaurants and hotels (some restaurants are there.  We had it in a small house, had home made food there.  The priest helped us get this done.)

Homam is going on...

A couple of pictures of the gopuram of Thirukkadaiyur temple, which I took in the morning of the pooja:

Thirukkadaiyur temple Gopuram

Thirukkadaiyur Temple Gopuram

The priest's phone number:

Kannan: 9442688200

We stayed at Hotel Manivizha: 04364287840

They did rudra homa, the previous evening from 6 pm.  After the pooja, at 8 pm, we visited Thirunallaaru Shaneeshwara temple, which was open till 9 pm. which was just half an hour drive away. The pooja at the venue went on till 9 pm., it seems.  Next day was Shanipradhosham day and this temple would have been difficult to even enter!


Next day, after the pooja, we visited Vaitheeshwaran Temple. It was open till 12.30 pm. The pooja had started at 6 am and was over by 9.30 am. Had brunch and left!

We had visited Chidambaram temple on our way to Thirukkadaiyur, which was also open till 12.30 pm.  They open again at 4 pm in the evening, it seems. 

So, we can visit all these temples.  People who are facing Shani Dasha visit Shaneeshwara temple.  Vaitheeshwaran temple deity cures illness.  Chidambaram Nataraja temple is famous for Art.  Beautiful architecture.

Chidambaram Temple Gopuram

Chidambaram Temple gopuram

Vaitheeshwaran temple looks very very ancient.  Gopuram is not maintained properly at all.  The inside of the temple also is very bad.  But it was too crowded when we went there.  Chidambaram temple looks well maintained.  Thirukkadaiyur is OK.  But all are ancient temples.  We had good darshan in all the temples this time.  Shani darshan was also good because it was late in the evening!

I always love to visit ancient temples!



First Picture Courtesy: Here

Our Treasure - III

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I wonder how I forgot to continue the series 'Our Treasure' after writing Part I and Part II!

Well...my friend, Shail, did a post on Thiruonam/Onam festival which triggered my memories.  I told her that we had seen a beautiful sculpture of Trivikrama/Vamana at Ellora(!).  During our road trip we had covered Ajanta, Ellora, Badami, Aihole and Pattada kallu at a stretch.  Now, it is more than one and a half years and I am getting confused! This Trivikrama sculpture is at the Badami Caves.  All the three of us, I, my husband and son were so overwhelmed when we saw the minute design of this sculpture, we spent more than half an hour, in front of this unique display of the talent of our ancestors.  Even now, as soon as I saw this, I felt breathless.  Have a look at it now and you too will feel like me!

Trivikrama, a sculpture at the Badami Caves (Karnataka). Notice the fingers, toes, the posture of King Mahabali's subjects pleading with Vishnu/Trivikrama...the Devas are on top...

Another angle!

The whole sculpture is here!

Click on the image and notice the hand holding a sword (on the right side). Such minute details can be seen here.  So many are there.

The story of the sculpture goes like this:

King Mahabali was a powerful, good King, though he was described as asura (demon).  His subjects loved and respected him.  He brought nearly the entire world under his kingdom.  He conquered Indra, the King of the Devas and occupied Indralokha.  He wanted to rule Indraloka permanently.  As per his Guru Shukracharya's advice, he conducted Ashwamedha yaga...a pooja to be the King of Indraloka.  He had done 99 yagas and had started doing the 100th, when Indra's mother Adhiti pleaded with Vishnu to help her son retain the Indraloka.  Vishnu assured her that he would do the needful.

He reincarnated as a Brahmin dwarf boy (Vaamana) and came to the Yagashala, the place where the yaga was taking place.  Seeing him, Mahabali asked him what he wanted, since it was the practice to give anything (daana, it is said) the Brahmins asked during the yaga time.  Vaamana praised Mahabali for his good and peaceful ruling of the kingdom. He reminded Mahabali that his great grandfather Prahlada was a great Vishnu devotee and also praised Hiranyakashipu, Prahlada's father, for his power and determination. 

Finally Vaamana said that he will need just three steps of land which he himself would measure.  Mahabali told him that he is not happy to give such a small amount of daana/gift and asked him to ask for more.  But Vaamana said the 3 steps of land would do.

The King's minister/adviser Shukracharya sensed that Vaamana was Vishnu and asked Mahabali to refuse giving the gift.  But Mahabali was adamant on giving the daana Vaamana had asked.  Mahabali did the sankalpa (sort of promise with tulsi water) and agreed to the 3 steps of land which Vaamana had asked. 

Next minute, the short image of Vaamana grew up in size, so huge that it was impossible to describe in words (which was called as Trivikrama Roopa).  The sculpture shows how the other images dwarfed in front of him.

His first step covered the earth, second covered the sky and when asked where to keep his third step, Mahabali offered his head.  Vishnu did that and Mahabali went into Pataal loka, below the earth.  

Before going down Vishnu gave Mahabali a boon as per the wish of his subjects, he will rule his country for one day a year as their king, every year.  This day is celebrated as Balipadya in Karnataka, Andhra and Maharashtra after Deepawali and as Thiruvonam/Vonam in Kerala (Thiruvona nakshathram/star in the Malayalam month of Chingam...Aug/Sept.).  Onam is celebrated in Kerala (for nearly 10 days, welcoming their King!) with feast, art festivals etc. 

I think I will be writing more about our treasures for a long time!

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Visit to Kukke Subrahmanya Temple, One Of The Famous Temples Of Karnataka.

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Kukke Subrahmanya Temple, Karnataka.

We had been visiting this temple often for the past 20 years or so.  I have mentioned about this in a couple of my earlier post too.

This is a famous Hindu temple, situated in the village of Subrahmanya, Karnataka. Here, the Hindu God Karthikeya (son of Lord Shiva and Parvathi) is worshipped as Subrahmanya, lord of all serpents. The epics relate that the divine serpent Vasuki and other serpents found refuge under Subrahmanya when threatened by the Garuda, Vishnu's Vahana/vehicle... a Kite-like bird which catches snakes.

We stayed in a hotel (Vasantha Mahal) in Mangalore which was quite good. Subrahmanya was around 105 Kms. from Mangalore, around 2 hours' journey by taxi.  We left at about 8 am, had breakfast at Hotel Uthsav which was nearby (all Udupi specials like Moode kadubu and other delicacies are available here) and left for Subrahmanya.  It was drizzling throughout the way.  Since the temple is situated in Western Ghats, the route was covered by trees on both sides.  The road used to be very narrow 20 years back and dark because of the trees, but now, it has become a quite busy road. But the old feel is still there.  Since we were there on a Wednesday, middle of the week, crowd was not there.  We could go to the sanctum sanctorum without standing in the queue. Schools had started after the summer vacation, so this was the right time to go there.  If too much crowd is there, they let the senior citizens in a separate queue. 


Our family members have got sarpa dosha (somebody in our family must have harmed snakes) and we were asked to do Ashlesha bali, i.e. pinda pradhana ceremony like we do for humans when they die, for the serpents.  We have to go on the previous day itself, register for the pooja.  Stay in some hotel (many are there now), come back in the morning after taking bath.  Do sankalpa (give your name, nakshatra/star, gothra etc.) with the priest and wait at the place of the pooja.  Snake shaped rangolis are drawn and pinda pradhanam (rice balls) was placed on them during the pooja. Actually, it is interesting to watch.  It takes around an hour or so.  Then prasadam is given.  It is not very expensive too. We did this pooja long back.

Some people do sarpa prathishte (placing serpent shaped stones at a particular place there at the temple). 

A close-up picture of the Gopuram.  Normally Karnataka temples do not have this type of gopuram.  They will be very simple.  This one resembles Tamilnadu temple gopurams as per my view.  Looks beautiful!

This is the temple for Subrahmanya (Lord Shiva and Parvati's son). More details from Wiki:

According to one Mythology, after killing the demon rulers, Tharaka, Shurapadmasura and their followers in a war, Lord Shanmukha reached Kumara parvatha with his brother Ganesha and others. He was received by Indra and his followers. Indra being very happy prayed Lord Kumara swamy, i.e.Subrahmanya, to accept and marry his daughter Devasena for which the Lord readily agreed. The divine marriage took place on Margashira shudha shashti at Kumara parvatha. Gods like Brahma, Vishnu, Rudra and many other deities assembled for the marriage and coronation ceremony of Shanmukha/Subrahmanya, for which waters of several holy rivers were brought. With these waters of Mahabhisheka fell down to form a river which was later known by the popular name Kumaradhara.The great Shiva Bhakta and Serpent king Vasuki was performing tapas for years in the Biladwara caves of Kukke Subrahmanya to avoid the attack of Garuda. Following Lord Shiva`s assurance Shanmuka gave darshan to Vasuki and blessed him that he would stay with his parama bhakta in this place forever. Hence the pooja offered to Vasuki or Nagaraja are nothing but the poojas to Lord Subrahmanya.

Kukke means makri/cane basket.  In olden days, people were bringing serpent shaped stones in baskets and keep them near the river Kumaradhara, it seems.  So, the temple is called Kukke Subrahmanya.

Lord Subrahmanya and Vasuki. Courtesy: Here

Bhairava and Umamaheshwara Sannidhis can be seen during the pradakshina.  I don't know how old this temple is, but the Gopuram looks recently built.  Earlier Adi Subrahmanaya temple only was here which can be seen two streets away.  The prasada given here is Snake nest's mud.

And we met this beautiful, young elephant in the temple.  He was a happy animal.  No chain marks on his legs/ankles could be seen, which made us very happy!  He was blessing everyone for a coin! Well, both I and my husband stood in front of him, watching him for sometime, happily!

We can have lunch at the temple.  We were in a hurry, so we didn't have it.  Local people always have it here without fail, as prasada. We visited the Adi Subrahmanya temple which was nearby and then had lunch outside the temple, which was just OK and returned to Mangalore. We saw this near the Adi Subrahmanya temple, which was interesting!

We can pay for annual poojas at the seva counter outside the counter.  It was drizzling throughout the day.

It was quite clean everywhere and the toilets also were clean!

This video shows the inside of the temple.  Got it in 'you tube'!


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Happy Feeling And Funny Feeling!

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Young elephant WITHOUT chain marks!

We had been to Kukke Subrahmanya temple, a couple of days back.  I will write more about it later.  I saw this baby elephant there which looked very happy, blessing people.  It had no chain marks on its ankles, which is very rare in temple elephants.  Felt very happy.

Another scene at the same temple complex, near old Subrahmanya temple, we saw this.  The temple is surrounded by a water body.  It looked like a river some 20 years back but now the water is nearly absent.  You can notice in the picture.  What we found weird was, people piling up stones one upon another and folding their hands at them.  I asked the security lady who was standing there, why people were doing that.  She laughingly said that one day, somebody did that for fun and seeing that other people had started piling stones one upon the other.  On my way back somebody said that if we pile up stones and pray for an own house, it works, it seems! So many 'houses' are there now!

I think we are not the right persons to laugh at them.  All of us have many types of superstitions like going to particular temple for different ailments, like Subrahmanya temple for skin problem, Vaikam Shiva temple for stomach problem, etc. Well....our country is full of temples for all sorts of problems.  We have to take everything easy!

We visit this temple because somebody said that we have got Naaga dosha (Somebody in our family must have harmed the serpent/snake sometime!)!
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Krishna Devi Temple...An Old Dilapidated But Beautiful Temple In Mahabaleshwar!

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We went on a road trip two weeks back from Chennai to Mahabaleshwar! Came back home via Goa... We visited 3 ancient forts (my son's favourites!).  And we visited this temple also!

It was drizzling and the whole area was covered by fog.  The passage to the temple was narrow and slippery.

This temple (in Mahabaleshwar) was built in 1888...Wiki says:

Behind Panchganga temple, there is a small trail that leads to Krishnabai temple where the Krishna river is worshipped. It is built on the hilltop overlooking the Krishna valley and was built in 1888 by a ruler of Ratnagiri on the Konkan coast. The temple has a Shiva lingam and a beautiful statue of Krishna. A small stream of the river flowing from a cow-face (gomukh) falls on a ‘Kunda’ or water tank. Stone carved columns and ceilings are the special characteristics of this temple. This old temple has gathered moss and is in ruins. It is not visited much by tourists and is isolated. But it provides a most exquisite view of the river Krishna.

Since it was a bit dark because of the rains and fog and the time was nearly 6 pm, I could not see the gods properly/clearly.  I noticed the whole garbha gruha was wet (no water stagnation though).  Only few lamps were there. The flowers looked beautiful on the dark stones.  We were just soaking in the drizzling rain and walking around! The pond where the water flows from the 'gomukh' looks as if it is not used or cleaned.  A priest came there after sometime and closed the door of the sannidhi...wooden door which looks new.  A few people came when we were there.  Otherwise, the whole area looked very quiet and pleasant.  You can notice from the pictures below.

Krishna Devi/Krishna Bai temple, Mahabaleshwar.  Notice the plants which are growing on the walls of the temple, this will destroy it in a few years

The narrow way to the Krishna Devi Temple...

The first view of the temple...

The garbha gruha and the Gomukh...Looks serene without any other distractions!

The legend says that River Krishna starts from this Gomukh statue (Cow's mouth)...The water comes like this throughout the year, it seems. 

The garbha gruha...sanctum sanctorum ...The frame, the door, the silver thrishool and Nagaraja looks as if they were added in the recent years.  A small Shiva linga was visible.

Nandi (Lord Shiva's vaahana/transport, bull!) statue in front of the temple.  You can notice the fog behind it.  We could not view the river properly from the railings but saw the scene which is given below.  We could have seen the beautiful panoramic view of the Krishna valley if the weather was clear!

The waterfall which flows into the Krishna river below! Notice the plastic bags and bottles thrown by the 'tourists'...dirty people.  This was visible from the railings near the temple.  This scene diffused the happy feeling we had, while roaming around the temple. 

Many people mention this temple as Krishnabai temple.  I don't know which name is right.  I liked the way the surroundings near the temple being maintained by somebody...it is spotless, no dead leaves or any other debris.  Very nice. Well...this visit is going to stay in my memory. 

The famous Krishna valley view is here...got it from the net.  We saw glimpses of this when the fog moved a bit but it vanished again! Here is the picture, thanks to Tushar_driving's link

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Our Treasure - II

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You must have read the first part of this series about our ancient treasures, here.  The sculptures mentioned here also are at Badami caves, Bagalkot, Karnataka, which was built in 578 CE by the Chalukya King, Mangalesha, according to the old Kannada script found here. (wiki link)

These cave temples are cut from Badami softstone rocks.  You can see the pictures here and in the earlier post.  You can read more details from the wiki link.

I mentioned about the Hindu God, Vishnu's beautiful sculpture in my earlier post.  Here some sculptures of Shiva and others in Cave no. 1. 

Please click on the picture and notice the minute design of the hands, the weapons in the hands of Shiva, the posture of the body, legs, etc. This is called 'Thandava Nrutya' by Shiva.  In this posture, he is called Nataraja, 'Natana raja' King of dancing.  Bharatnatyam, which is the Indian classical dance, the postures are derived from the postures of Nataraja here and from various other temple walls. 

I am not a scholar on Hiduism, so, I am stopping here and just posting the pictures, I admired!

5 ft. tall Statue of Shiva as Nataraja (the dancing pose)  with 18 hands.  You can see Ganesha and Nandi, the Bull too, here.

This statue is on the outer wall of the cave. I wonder where the sculptors stand and do this so perfectly!

I am posting this picture just to show where it is, in the cave.

Nagaraja...serpent god hanging from the ceiling.  Click on the pictures to view better pl.

This image is on the ceiling! The guide gave a story...the sculptors lie down on the wooden ladder/saaram and cut this with broad leaves placed on their eyes which are slightly heated so that just the nerves in the leaves are there to see through and work.  The stone pieces might not fall on their eyes and hurt them, though I don't think it is enough.  We can just admire them.  I saw many many more images on the ceilings here and other places like Ajanta, Pattada Kallu etc.

One more design on the ceiling

This is Shiva with his wife Parvati and his vaahana (transport!) Nandi.  Look at the designs on the pillars and ceiling.  My picture is not this clear.  Thanks to this photographer, I noticed many things here in this picture and his other pictures in the link.

This is Narasimha (Nara, means human, Simha means Lion).  Another avataar of Vishnu.  Notice the designs on the pillars and the corners of the ceiling images. 

He looks relaxed here, not like Ugra Narasimha...angry faced Narasimha.  Look at the details...ornaments and other images on the sides.

The details of this cave are here!

The is the sandstone rock from which these temples are carved.  Really amazing. Many many more sculptures are there.  I am covering only some which caught my eye instantly. 

Let me write more about this cave in the coming posts. Our country has got treasures like this all over.  Let us treasure them.  We should be proud to be Indians. 

HAPPY REPUBLIC DAY (TODAY!)!

GANATANTRA DIWAS KI SHUBH KAANAYEIN!

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Our Treasure - I

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Para Vasudeva (Vishnu), at Badami Caves, North Karnataka

'Eega Raja durbarada olage praveshisiri', the guide said and we were asked to enter this beautiful palace hall-like place in the Badami Caves.

It took sometime for me to decipher what he was saying...I was stunned at the beauty of the sculpture...it was mind boggling! I really had a feeling that I had entered a palace!

We had a 2 week visit to Ajanta-Ellora Cave paintings/sculptures in Maharashtra, Aihole, Pattada Kallu and Badami cave temples in Karnataka.

Badami caves were built by the Chalukya King, Mangalesha in the year 578 CE. We can see an old Kannada inscription on a stone here about the period. Badami was called Vatapi in those days. These rock temples (4 temples, one for Shiva, 2 for Vishnu and one for Jain/Mahaveera) are carved out of the soft Badami sandstone on a hill in the late 6th to 7th centuries.

This temple of Vishnu was the best and the biggest and it had splendid giant figures of Paravasudeva, Bhuvaraha, Harihara and Narasimha (all avataras of Vishnu). I will post the other pictures later! The guide said that the avatara of Vishnu here, is called Para Vaasudeva!

A closer picture of the sculpture! Look at the heads of the snakes, the fingers, nails, toes, ornaments, the flow of the anga vastra (the cloth flowing from the shoulder), the way the feet are poised...click on the picture to view clearly!

You can see the tiny figures around the main sculpture here! The snake's body looks so natural, thin in the end and then it becomes thicker on top!  These sculptures go beyond religions!                                                                                       

The 70 feet wide cave in which this sculpture is seen.

The Vishnu temple is on the left. We had to climb many uneven steps to reach there.

The caves were carved through these rocks! Incredible!

This beautiful photograph is by Dinesh Kannambadi.  Looks clearer than my picture!

Many more beautiful sculptures are there.  This post will become tooo long then.  I am planning to do small small posts, so that it would be easy to read.

We have got so many precious treasures here, in our own country.  I regret for not visiting these places earlier.  We should be very proud of our ancestors for leaving treasures like these for us and our future generation to admire.  These cave temples will stay for thousands of years to declare the greatness of our Indian heritage.

HAPPY LOHRI,
(TODAY)

 HAPPY PONGAL, 

(15.1.15)

MAKARA SHANKRANTHI, 

TO ALL MY FRIENDS! 

BE HAPPY ALWAYS!

P.S.: Our Treasure - II is here!

        Our Treasure - III is here!

I Am A Changed Person Now... More Self-confidence...Jai Maataa Di!

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My sister in law had visited this temple long back, around 20 years back! She had said that the road to the temple was too tough and they had to go via a small cave to reach the garbha gruha of Ma Vaishno Devi.  I love adventure and wanted to visit this place for a long time.  And I love to visit ancient temples than modern temples! Then I came to know how Amitabh, after losing all the money via ABCL, his company (He nearly lost his house too), got the opportunity to anchor Kaun Banega Crorepathi, a quiz show in TV and then no looking back for him.  He has got 4 houses in Mumbai now and other assets.  He, along with his producers had visited Vaishno devi temple before starting the shooting, for KBC, it seems.  I wonder whether it was luck, god's gift or his talent brought him this far! I have heard others also talk a lot about this temple.  For us, South Indians, human-like black images are gods. I was curious to see how this temple is and became so famous without a proper moorthi (sculpture) of the devi!

I read these links before visiting this temple... Ma Vaishno Devi here. One more link is here. This is the second 'most visited temple' in India, after Sri Venkateshwara temple at Tirupati. This god is believed to be very powerful.  Ma Vaishno Devi did penance in the cave at Trikuta hill,  where she resides now, the story says.  She is called as Santoshi ma and Lakshmi also...different versions of stories are there.  Anyway, this is a powerful god and I could feel the vibration at the temple.  Now, let me write about our visit in detail.

As I told in my earlier post about 'Wagah border' we went on a North India tour with 20 other couples...Nirmala Tours & Travels, made our tour comfortable.   This tour was called, Amritsar-Vaishno Devi tour. 

This image of Ma Vaishno devi is from wikipedia. 

The priest said that the stone in the centre  is Ma Vaishno devi.  The right one is Maha kaali and the left one is Saraswathi.  This is a replica of Ma Vaishno devi which was at the hotel we stayed. 

We had reached Katra, a small village in Jammu from Amritsar at about 4.30 pm on 22nd Oct. '13 by bus.    We stayed at the hotel Shankar Palace.  It was good.  We had dinner.  The Nirmala Travels people bring their cooks along with them.  They cooked vegetarian food at the hotels, wherever we stayed and served us.  Then, Pradeep, our tour Manager, took us to a place where we had to register our names for visiting the temple.  They took our photos and asked where we came from and gave us a card to visit the temple.  Pradeep said that it was better to walk to the temple, all 13 Km. at night since the weather would be good instead of walking in the sun in the morning.  The shrine is at an altitude of 5300 feet.  So, we and some 4 others started walking at 9.30 pm, on that night itself...we had some chocolates and water, that is all and my mobile, which was not allowed inside the temple later!  Some people hired helicopters and some horses.  We can go by palki too... 5-6 people will carry us...mostly old people use this.  I saw many old people walking slowly, shouting 'jai mata di'  on my way...the road was quite crowded. Children and youngsters were enjoying the walk. The other people who started walking with us had gone up, walking speedily than us! There were many hairpin bends which were tough to climb because of the road level.  Many people took walking sticks with them which cost Rs. 10. 

Some old people asked us to drink water, just take one sip at a time.  We were sitting at benches which were in front of the shops, often.  There were many shops selling eatables and drinks.

Benches like this were seen everywhere on the way.  We sat in these benches often and then proceeded. 

View from the road to Vaishno devi.

Another view from the road to Vaishnodevi

I noticed around 4 T-series shop (Gulshan Kumar's!) on the way up!

Even 'Coffee day' shop was there!

 

We saw these types of steps on the roadside.  They are used for people to hop on the horses. Many people used horses to visit the temple.  Our tour manager said that it was tough for women.  They had thigh pains the next day!

Fog filled road...a small girl is made to sit here with red cloth draped on her, for begging...she was with full make-up! Felt sorry for the girl.  The road was so lonely.

This young donkey looks beautiful...!

Since no motorised vehicle could not go uphill, donkeys are used for taking loads, even gas cylinders.  The traffic of horses and donkeys were so much that it was difficult to walk alongside them at places. This picture was taken while coming back in the next morning!

 One more girl is begging.  At least this area is lit and people were there.

Some of the friends I met on the way! Saw many langoors too, but was too tired to click them!

Our tour manager had insisted on us to take the last 5 Km, the battery car road, which would be easier to climb.  We could feel the difference  between the road we had come and this road.  This was smoother and the steepness was less! People who wanted to climb steps to reach the temple, can do so.  But it was too difficult for us!

We reached the temple gate at about 4 am, the next morning.  We had to walk more to have the darshan of the Devi...wet steps were there to climb.  Every devotee is checked for the registered card.  Body search were there at two places.  And it was raining outside! I saw two people skidding and falling down in the steps.  Everyone must have been tired.  WE were very tired.  Thank god, the crowd was less on that day.   Red chaddar and nariyal (red zari cloth and coconut) were being sold for offering to the god.  The place was too crowded and we were tired to stand  in the queue again.  So, we just offered some money, which was the only thing with me then! Even hand bags were not allowed inside! Leather is banned, I was told. My husband wore a watch with leather strap.  He left it at the hotel itself. I think it is OK.  A priest was standing a few steps before reaching the Devi and placing teeka on our foreheads. 

When I reached the Gabha gruha (sanctum), I asked the Panda to explain about the gods since I was coming from Chennai and did not know much about this god.  He explained about the 3 gods (pind or pindi).  The gods were not facing us but they were on the left side, facing the opposite wall.   The old cave has been converted into a modern cave...I didn't feel it like a cave.  So, it is very easy to reach the  god/deities  now.  But it was wet everywhere.  Then we came out. Again, it was a long way to reach the gate.  Since the darshan was over, we felt more tired while coming out.  We lost the way and entered the area where horses were standing...so many horses and their stench!  My husband had tea and biscuits on the way but since I was feeling a bit sick, I didn't have anything except a little water and it was showing! Somehow we came out of the place and reached a hotel which was very nearby.  It was 5 am by then.  I saw many people sleeping, on the way back,  covering themselves with rugs/woollen blankets.  We came to know that the temple offers them freely.   The verandahs where they were allowed to sleep, were quite clean.  Somebody told me that the darshan was closed for the morning aarthi.  I thought I would go back and watch it.  But then they said that only select people were allowed inside, for the aarthi!

Both of us had tea and bread toast at the hotel.  It was very cold and drizzling outside.  I was shivering though I was wearing sweater.  Then, the toilets...they were horrible!  The bucket and mugs were also dirty.  Why is it like this when our temples get so much money, can't they provide the basic facilities?  The toilets on our way up were very clean and modern!

We were told that a few battery cars were there to take us down for about 5 Kms.  But they started at 8 am.  We were so tired to start walking down immediately.  They charge Rs.200/- per head, for the 5 Kms.  Still, it made us the climbing down easier! No, climbing down was tougher than climbing up! We had to balance ourselves downward! Knees had started buckling often! My husband had some ginger tea and I had ginger soda in a small shop.  The shopkeeper had not heard of Chennai or Tamilnadu! But then I thought that I didn't know exactly where Chattisgarh or Uttarakhand was!

We were able to get bottled, Kinley water everywhere on our way to the temple, for Rs.20/-. It was a blessing! All goods to the shops came via donkeys.  I didn't see any cart or tempo carrying goods on our way!

Everybody was smiling and no untoward incidents were seen on the way.  I felt sick in the morning hours because of sleeplessness, I think and my husband was sweating a lot in the chilly weather.  I was a bit worried about him, but everything went on well, thank god..mata di! We never thought we could make the trip by walk, but we did.  I never knew that it would be so tough before going, but then we made it!  We reached the hotel at 11.15 am, the next morning! Pradeep, our tour manger said that he was worried about our walking because of our age and he was so happy to see us back, smiling! We had bought some fruits on our way back.  Had a hot water bath at our room.  Had the fruits and some hot milk and slept till 4.30 in the evening!  The next morning, we started to Jammu by bus!

Everybody in the bus congratulated us for our trip to the temple by walk.  Only a few people in our group did it, it seems! Others went by helicopter and horse backs.

Ma Vaishno Devi assured us that both of us have got very good health and make more trips in the future like this!

JAI MATA DI! 

EDITED TO ADD ON 30.11.13:   I forgot to mention about a clinic on our road up the hill.  There was always a doctor - 24 hours a day, it seems! Nice!

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